Me and Baja
I came to California in January of 1964. I had heard
horror stories about the California freeways, so my approach
to LA was through San Diego from US 80. In '64 San Diego
was just a tiny spot on the map compared to LA unfortunately
that has changed Chula Vista grew some really nice tomatoes
back then. This approach served two purposes namely to
avoid snow and freeways. I entered Texas at Texarkana
and exited 18 hours later at El Paso. I ran through a
rattlesnake migration and did see signs at service stations
(they did exist back then) “we do not fix flats”.
It’s a big state.
It was about 5:30 PM on a work day, already dark and
in rush hour traffic when I encountered my very first
traffic circle somewhere in the Long Beach area. It was
love as soon as I made the first left-hand pull on the
steering wheel to join many other automobiles turning
left in concert. A brutal tire wrenching exercise for
bias ply tires (polyester ain’t been invented yet).
Even with it being fun I felt relieved to exit the circle
still headed north on US 101. I was much calmer when I
entered the second one and I made an extra lap just for
fun. Short track at it’s best and I am way better
at it now. If I would have grown up in Long Beach or western
Arkansas NASCAR might have been worrying about that damn
unruly Alexander boy. Hmmm? Is there a Guinness World
record for driving within a traffic circle?
My best high school buddy had joined the Navy and was
stationed in San Diego. Once while he was my passenger
back in Arkansas he said, “Alex you drive like a
madman”. Soon after semi-settling in Hawthorne I
went to San Diego to visit him. He was married and Tijuana
was off limits to military personnel, naturally that was
the first place we headed for. 50 solicitations per city
block was the average, all by males who had virgin sisters
but some were even soliciting for their mother who also
had a hymen that had amazingly been repaired. I did not
care for this even after a few shots of Tequila and I
stayed away for several years.
In 1972 I bought a new Dodge van. On the first trip to
the desert I cried for my ’66 El Camino because
of lack of power, I didn’t cry while going through
Riverside. In the Riverside area smog would be so dense
that visibility was a half-mile and it burned your eyes,
now I avoid that with the windows up and the AC on. Very
early in life the Dodge went to Mexico, possibly the first
weekend that the interior was complete and there wasn’t
a District 37 points race. A new van as it comes from
the factory is somewhat like being inside of a large metal
trash can rolling down the street. Dinah claims that it
still sounds like that. Anyway the trip was to Santo Thomas
and then to the coast. When the return was completed the
van was washed and the undercarriage was flushed. In a
few days the year will be ’06 and it still gets
washed the same way, sometimes.
The next trip was through Ensenada and over toward Mike’s
Sky Ranch to watch the Baja 1000. In Ensenada as we were
looking for the road to Valle de Trinidad one guy went
into a shoe store to ask for directions. This had to be
destiny because he came out eating a taco and with perfect
directions. No, he didn’t get sick and if he had
it would have been from the three tacos that he consumed
from street vendors in Tijuana not the one from the zapateria?
As we neared Ojos Negros we had the thrill of meeting
Walker Evans doing about 110MPH on a narrow assed mountain
road. Recently in a Spanish class I found that Ojos Negros
means eyes blacks a collision with Walker would have done
a lot more than black your eyes.
The road to Valle de Trinidad was not yet paved beyond
Ojos Negros. The paving was in progress and the dust would
choke even a tall giraffe. Fresh water is a precious commodity
and when it becomes too far to haul seawater the quality
of the roadbed and the quality of life both suffer. As
we approached the area where we wanted to watch the race
from we ran over a rabbit, not nearly as tall as a giraffe
and it was having real trouble seeing. It soon turned
into rabbit asada this guy has a wonderful appetite.
The next trip was for the same purpose but this race
started in Mexacali. There had just been a tremendous
rain from the tail end of a hurricane. The bridges on
Mex. 5 had been washed out there was a single blade cut
making a new road down into each ravine and out the other
side. The racecourse turned off the highway and went up
the dirt road toward Valle de Trinidad. Shortly beyond
the turn off there is a section of treacherous sand, where
there are hundreds of vehicles stuck. It takes us a couple
of hours to get through here. To my amazement I was never
stuck, stopped and blocked but give this Dodge a clear
path and it would move again. I gained a lot of respect
for the Chrysler 727 transmission.
In the sand bog there were hundreds of people stuck in
places as far as 30 yards either side of the road. Most
are stuck in the road and in a little more than 12 hours
that becomes the racecourse. When we get out the other
side the tracks indicate that few vehicles have successfully
crossed this soft area. Just a few miles later we are
waved down by a group of banditos, I couldn't get around
them and I didn’t want to get blood on the van from
running over them. They jabbered a bunch of Spanish that
none of us could understand but made no threats by actions.
We got out of the van knowing that there was an arroyo
in front of us. To our amazement in the bottom of the
arroyo, squarely in the middle of the road is a two-ton
truck loaded with about 6 and one half tons of what I
have come to know as ironwood. There was no way to get
around this truck. And that is just the way it is today,
their problem becomes your problem with people helping
each other if they can. Several families accompany this
truck with small children in tow it is a chilly night
and a couple of fires have been made for warmth but not
from the precious ironwood, that was a cash generating
commodity.
People are working on the truck and after we have been
stopped for 15 minutes or so the truck starts. The families
gathered with most boarding the truck and I think their
troubles are over. One man stations himself beside each
front wheel and as the truck begins to move forward the
men kick the wheels into semi-alignment. There is absolutely
no directional control from the steering wheel. Now here
are some tough hombres, they could have robbed us using
a stick of that ironwood as a weapon. As they move the
front wheels are leaving tracks that look like two extremely
large and extremely drunk snakes have meandered down the
road.
The next day we watch the race at a serious uphill and
I am amazed at how many contestants don’t make it
up this hill. After months of preparation, thousands of
dollars invested and 80 miles into the race you are finished
by an uphill? I just can’t comprehend that. A serious
District 37 Checker would have carried even a large vehicle
up the hill on his back. These guys sitting around at
the bottom of the hill crying and picking their nose are
from Chicago or maybe somewhere in Minnesota. I recognized
a guy from upstate New York and he went up that hill like
shit through a tinhorn, name’s Bodine I think. The
point being some people are competitors, some ain't. The
one that I could never understand, a mechanically tired
and completely stock Plymouth Valiant station wagon with
new Sears steel belted radial street tires. What were
they thinking? I offered to help them push this worthless
piece of shit over a small cliff just to get it out of
the way, they declined. At that time the tires were worth
more than the vehicle.
In races like this it is not uncommon for a driver or
rider to be evacuated by helicopter after a wreck. In
some cases a "friend" is ask to recover the
vehicle. I know of more than one instance in which upon
returning to the US the vehicle makes a detour to the
friend's house where the motor and transmission are removed.
The vehicle then continues the trip to the owner’s
house where it is reported that when I got there the damn
Mexicans had already stolen the motor and transmission.
A little bit of number scrubbing and a fresh coat of paint
of a different color (dark blue or black easily covers
any lighter color) and that motor and transmission will
race again, in a different vehicle. Once away from the
border towns I trust the people of Baja.
Some older Mexican woman is credited with the sage observation
"bad roads bring good people". That’s
all she said and there are times when I begin to wish
the road below San Felipe had never been changed. Four
and one half-hours is a long time to drive with an average
speed of about 12 miles an hour. The woman probably does
not see both sides of the coin. Or maybe I am too cynical
as I believe there is a transitory change because of the
environment. Here is my attempt to describe both sides
of that elusive coin. If I am stopped in Baja on one of
those 12-MPH roads and an American comes along generally
he will stop to see if I need any help in finishing this
piss. Put that same person on I-15 at 5 PM on Friday and
if I am lying in the breakdown lane and he thinks that
running over my legs will give him the extra traction
that he needs to pass the car in front of him, say good
bye to your legs. Why the change? If you have car trouble
here the temperature is likely to be well short of the
100º mark and help is usually available within easy
walking distance. The chances of the fat ass taking a
single step are remote instead he will make 17 calls on
his cell phone. Sixteen of these 17 calls are to advise
people of his situation and location, one call was a wrong
number and that person was more concerned than the 16
people he thinks are his friends.
People are curious about Baja but not many go there.
I am repeatedly asked similar questions and I have developed
graphical answers for some of these. The amenities in
Puertocitos? If you have a large gun and $100 dollar bill,
neither will get you a package of cigarettes. Traffic
circles in Mexico? They are very common and I love them
especially the ones wide enough for three or four lanes
of traffic but there are no lane markers. I put my hat
on backwards, lick my Mexican Insurance policy and slap
it on the windshield, and drive like they do. My wife
has her very own terminology but for that you will have
to go to her.
I don’t consider myself to be in Baja until I am
below Ensenada on the Pacific side and San Felipe on the
Sea of Cortez side. I suppose that one of the reasons
that I like it is because it reminds me of Arkansas 40
years ago.
There is no ending for this story because it ain’t
gonna end until I am dead. Baja is very unpredictable
so trying to look into the future is futile. I have no
idea what will happen next I am simply trying to be ready
for whatever Baja delivers.
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by Ray Alexander |
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